The Challenge: Ceiling Cable Running Isn't Straightforward
Running a security camera cable through your ceiling sounds simple until you actually start. You're drilling holes, pushing something through darkness, and hoping it comes out the other side without getting tangled, pinched, or lost inside your roof space.
Most DIYers end up with one of these problems: the cable gets stuck halfway, you can't find where it exited, the rope attachment fails, or the cable arrives damaged on the other end.
This guide walks you through how to do it properly—using a proven method that installers rely on.
Understanding Your Ceiling
Before you start, you need to know what you're actually pushing a cable through.
Most Australian homes have similar ceiling setups:
• Timber joists running parallel, spaced 16-18 inches apart
• Fire blocking—additional timber pieces that segment the space
• Insulation layers (batts or blown) that create resistance
• Possible obstacles: ducting, plumbing, electrical wiring you can't see
The key insight: You're not pushing through one clear path. You're navigating around and between multiple barriers. The method matters far more than the tool.
The Proven Method: Using Yellow Tape Properly
Yellow tape (also called pull tape or mule tape) is a flat, woven polyester ribbon designed for this exact job. It's flexible enough to navigate real-world ceiling complexity while strong enough to handle the load.
Here's what makes it work when done correctly:
1. It flexes, not fights – The flat design lets it slip past obstacles rather than jamming against them
2. You can feel the path – As you push it through, you can sense where it's going and adjust
3. Lower cost – At $30-50, it's affordable enough to replace if something goes wrong
4. Distance markers – Built-in foot markings let you know exactly how much cable you need
What You'll Need
• Yellow tape (25-50 feet depending on your ceiling size)
• Nylon rope or fabric strip (stronger than fishing line—it won't snap)
• Gaffer tape or electrical tape (for secure attachment)
• A small nail or awl (for probing)
• A helper (genuinely useful, not optional)
• Gloves (your hands will thank you)
That's it. No expensive specialty tools.
Step-by-Step: Making It Work
Step 1: Map Your Route Before Drilling
Use a small nail to probe your ceiling and identify joist locations. Mark them lightly with pencil. You want to run your cable between joists, parallel to them if possible. This is the difference between a 5-minute job and a frustrating hour.
Key point: The entry and exit holes should be roughly aligned with the direction the joists run. If your joists run east-west, place your holes east-west. This avoids pushing the tape across multiple joists.
Step 2: Secure the Rope to Your Cable Properly
This step fails more often than any other. Wrap your nylon rope around the camera cable using gaffer tape. Make multiple overlapping wraps—not just one strip. The rope should extend 50-60cm beyond the cable so you have something to grab from below.
Test the attachment before you start: Try pulling on the rope hard. If it slips, retape it. Do this now, not when you're halfway through the ceiling.
Step 3: Feed the Yellow Tape Through (From Above)
From your attic or above the ceiling:
• Feed the yellow tape into your marked entry hole
• Keep it angled slightly downward—gravity helps
• Push steadily with consistent pressure. Don't jab or force it
• If you feel resistance, try gently rocking the tape side-to-side rather than pushing harder
• Listen for feedback from your helper below ("I can see it coming through")
The tape's flat design means it can squeeze past obstacles—insulation, fire blocking, even slight joist contact. Let it work. Push, don't yank.
Step 4: Grab the Rope from Below
From inside the room:
• When the rope appears through your exit hole, grab it firmly
• Use your hand or pliers—whatever gives you a good grip
• Pull steadily and smoothly. Jerky pulling puts strain on the cable
• Keep tension consistent as you pull. Sudden stops can pinch the cable
Your helper above should be feeding slack as you pull. Communicate if you feel resistance—they might need to guide the tape differently.
Step 5: Separate and Clean Up
Once the cable is through:
• Untape the rope from the cable
• Remove the tape from the rope
• Straighten the cable—check for kinks or damage
• Verify the cable sheath hasn't been scraped or punctured
• Coil any excess cable neatly in your attic for future adjustments
Time expectation: 10-20 minutes for your first attempt. 5-10 minutes once you've done it once.
What to Do When It Gets Stuck
The tape isn't moving forward
This usually means you've hit a joist or fire blocking. Remove the tape completely (don't force it). Mark where it got stuck. From above, try shifting your angle by 2-3 inches and attempt again. Fire blocking typically runs horizontally—angling around it often works.
The rope is slipping on the cable
This means your tape job wasn't tight enough. Stop immediately. Untape everything, rewrap the rope with multiple overlapping layers of gaffer tape, and try again. Gaffer tape grips much better than standard electrical tape.
The cable got pinched during the pull
Always, always run more cable than you think you'll need. Aim for 2-3 metres of slack so you're never pulling under tension. Pinching happens when the cable is fighting against friction and stress.
You can't find where the tape exited below
Before you start, use a small nail or drill bit to create a pilot hole. This marks exactly where to expect the tape. You can always enlarge the hole later. Much better than pushing blindly.
The tape is moving too slowly or feels stuck in insulation
This is normal. Yellow tape does push through insulation, but it requires steady, patient pressure. Don't increase force dramatically. Slight pressure combined with gentle rocking often works better than raw pushing.
Pro Tips That Save Time
Run extra cable length. Don't economise here. Extra cable coiled in your attic costs nothing. Coming back to re-run everything because you're 1 metre short costs hours.
Protect your hole edges. When pulling the cable through, wrap something soft (old cloth, foam pipe wrap) around the hole edges. Sharp drywall edges will scrape the cable sheath as it passes through.
Label everything. If you're running multiple camera cables, label each one at both ends before you start pulling. Once they're in the ceiling, you can't tell them apart.
Have your helper actually help. They're not just there for moral support. They should be watching the exit hole, communicating what they see, and ready to grab the rope when it appears. A good helper cuts the job time in half.
Pre-lubricate if you're nervous. Some installers apply cable lubricant or even soapy water to the tape before pushing. This reduces friction. It's optional, but it helps on longer runs or through heavy insulation.
Mark the exit point from below first. Drill a tiny pilot hole from inside the room where you want the cable to exit. This gives you a target and prevents the tape from drifting to a different location.
Common Scenarios You'll Actually Face
Scenario 1: Old Ceiling with Heavy Insulation
The tape will move slowly but will get through. Use steady pressure—don't increase force suddenly. If the insulation is piled high, it might compress slightly as the tape pushes through, then spring back. That's fine. Your cable will follow the same path when you pull.
Scenario 2: Ceiling Has Unexpected Obstacles
If you hit something mid-run (ducting, water pipe), stop. Carefully remove the tape. Mark the obstacle. Try a different angle or shift your entry/exit holes by 30cm. Most obstacles are avoidable if you route around them.
Scenario 3: Multiple Cameras, Multiple Cables
Run one cable at a time. Each cable needs its own tape pass. It takes 5-10 extra minutes per cable but prevents twisted, tangled, or damaged cables. Worth it.
Scenario 4: No Attic Access
If you don't have attic access, you can still do this through a basement or crawlspace. The principle is the same—just work upward. The tape will take slightly longer to navigate, but the method works.
Scenario 5: Textured Ceiling You Don't Want to Patch
Run your cable along the inside wall edge where the ceiling meets the wall. You only need one small hole there, and corners are forgiving to patch. Your cable can travel most of the distance inside the room's top corner instead of through the middle of the ceiling.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much cable slack should I leave in the attic?
Aim for 2-3 metres. This gives you flexibility to reposition cameras or adjust connections later without re-running the entire cable.
Can I pull the cable back out if I need to reposition the camera?
Yes. Leave slack in the attic. Disconnect at the camera, retape the rope to the cable, and pull it back through the same path. You might need to push the tape through again to guide the cable back.
If the cable gets damaged during pulling, can I repair it?
For security camera cables, it's usually not worth repairing. Just re-run a new cable. It's faster and more reliable than splicing and re-insulating.
Do I need to turn off power to nearby circuits?
Not required for low-voltage camera cables (no shock risk), but it's good practice. Fewer variables means fewer problems.
What's the maximum cable length I can pull this way?
For residential ceiling runs, 30-50 feet is typical. Beyond that, you might need a second entry point or a different method. If you're doing longer runs, talk to a professional installer about conduit options.
Can I use yellow tape for outdoor conduit runs?
Yellow tape is designed for indoor use. For outdoor or underground runs, use proper electrical conduit and appropriate cable. Outdoor UV exposure breaks down the tape.
When to Call a Professional
You should DIY this if:
• You're installing 1-4 cameras
• You have attic or basement access
• Your ceiling is in reasonable condition (not severely damaged)
• You're comfortable with basic tools
You should hire a professional if:
• You have no attic or basement access
• Your ceiling has complex obstacles (multiple HVAC systems, extensive plumbing)
• You need multiple runs across different areas of your home
• You're uncomfortable working at height or in enclosed spaces
Ready to Install Your System?
Cable running is one part of a complete installation. Before you drill, make sure you've planned:
• Camera placement for optimal coverage
• Cable routes that avoid obvious obstacles
• Appropriate cable lengths (always longer than you think you need)
• Where your DVR or NVR will live
• How you'll manage excess cable neatly
A bit of planning upfront saves hours of troubleshooting later.